With less than 24 hours to Valenciennes’ first match of the Women’s World Cup, there is a buzz around the compact, historic city centre.
Bistros have adorned their exteriors with the flags of the 24 competing teams; FIFA promotional flags hang down from street lights.
At the shiny Stade du Hainaut, built in 2011, the local volunteers are eagerly anticipating their big day on Sunday.
For a small town of just 50,000, being a host city for FIFA’s flagship women’s tournament is a big deal.
It might not quite be Samara in Russia – a host for last year’s men’s World Cup, which had been sealed from the outside world during the Soviet era and suddenly welcomed hundreds of thousands of international tourists.
But for quiet Valenciennes, the arrival of several thousand Australians and Italians ahead of Sunday – just the first of six World Cup matches the city is hosting – is making a big impact.
“We are so pleased to be welcoming teams from around the world,” said Sophie, a staff member at the local tourist office.
The tournament’s importance to the local population is evident in unlikely places.
On the steps of the Église Saint-Géry, Valenciennes’ oldest church, churchgoers have placed a sign welcoming “the teams and supporters” of the six nations playing group stage matches in the city.
Église Saint-Géry was built in the 12th century. It was severely damaged during the Second World War, but repaired faithfully to the original design and now sits with pride of place just minutes from Valenciennes’ main square.
It remains in active use, with a boisterous congregation – as this correspondent found out when he inadvertently interrupted a rhythmic service.
The church’s revival is an apt metaphor for the decline and reinvigoration of Valenciennes itself. Labelled the Athens of the north, the city was renowned for its lace work and once hosted a number of notable French painters and designers.
The fall of the steel and textile industries in the 1970s and 1980s saw Valenciennes endure a significant population decline, with the city fast losing its lustre.
But urban regeneration and investment have seen Valenciennes rebound. The population is growing again, new shops are arriving and, in the weeks ahead, the FIFA circus will converge here.
Joy and Mervin, avid football fans from rural Queensland, had been in Valenciennes since Wednesday ahead of the Matildas’ opener.
“Everyone here is very friendly, although we are having some language difficulties,” Joy admitted. “English is not exactly widely spoken!”
The couple have been to four consecutive World Cups and the AFC Women’s Asian Cup last year. But this was their first Women’s World Cup, and they were excited to combine football and French culture.
“We’re looking forward to the month ahead – we are around all tournament,” said Mervin. “There isn’t a whole lot to see and do in Valenciennes, but it’s a nice town – we’re from the country so we enjoy smaller places.”
The Matildas were also enjoying their lower-key build-up, away from the hype of the major French cities but with a buzz nevertheless building around the tournament.
“We haven’t been to the city centre, but a few of us went to the little area near our hotel and all the locals knew why we are here,” Sam Kerr said.
“That’s Europe for you – there’s always a buzz around football, and that’s why we love playing here.”
In Valenciennes? Don’t miss:
• The Musée des Beaux-Arts dates back to 1801 and has an impressive collection, including several from former resident Antoine Watteau – a pioneer of the Rococo style. A statue to Watteau has also been erected in the park next to Église Saint-Géry.
• Place d’Armes is the bustling heart of Valenciennes, surrounded by cafes, the imposing town hall, a new shopping centre and, for the next month, a FIFA fan-zone.
• For those who have already overindulged in rich French food, the delicious Chinese offerings at MANKOUFU might be a welcome alternative.
• The best coffee in town is found at the simply-named Easy Coffee. The cakes aren’t bad, either.
• For those with a brave palate, try the local delicacy at one of Valenciennes’ many restaurants: smoked ox tongue covered with foie gras (lucullus).
