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It is not called the Stade des Alpes – Stadium of the Alps – for nothing.
Nestled just south of Grenoble’s historic old town centre, the stadium has stunning views to the foothills of Europe’s largest mountain range.
From any seat, the peaks that surround this lively French city of 160,000 appear to loom over the stadium, fencing it in.
It is a fantastic view befitting a great arena, built in 2008 and holding 20,068 fans.
The Stade des Alpes was almost at capacity for Canada’s recent match with New Zealand and should be nearly full again for the Matildas, a pleasant change from the first two group-stage matches (in Valenciennes and Montpellier) – both of which lacked the atmosphere of a packed stadium.
Fans will head to the game on Wednesday (AEST) feeling buoyant, after a pleasant few days of sightseeing in Grenoble.
With abundant options for nature tourism, several great museums and delicious culinary choices, Grenoble is emerging as one of the most-loved host cities by visitors.
The university town is an apt home for the World Cup.
It hosts a historic football team, Grenoble Foot 38 – founded in 1892 and currently playing in Ligue 2. Grenoble also has a storied sporting tradition, having held the 1968 Winter Olympics.
With dozens of cafes and bars offering sprawling open-air seating arrangements within the picturesque old town, and with consecutive beautiful sunny June days, the atmosphere should be electric.
But signage promoting the tournament is sparse – it is not obvious that a major sporting event is underway. At most bars, screens showing the tournament seem more of an after-thought than the main event.
The same complaints have been made of other French host cities – particularly Paris. But it seems extra-pertinent in compact Grenoble, where much could be done with relatively minor investment.
“It is a real shame,” said Anna, a Canadian fan.
“This would be an ideal place for the party atmosphere you see at the men’s World Cup. But instead the vibe feels very flat.
“I feel like: if you build it, they will come,” she continued.
“But FIFA and the local organising committee haven’t built it.”
“It’s like a scavenger hunt to find promotion of the tournament – the surprise reveal is that there’s a World Cup taking place.”
For Bob and Lloyd, two Jamaicans – now based in Britain and Germany respectively – an absence of visibility is not going to deter them from cheering on their national team in full voice.
“We’ve already won the World Cup, just by being here,” Bob laughed. “It is historic.”
“We are the ultimate underdogs – for a small island like ours to be playing on the world stage is fantastic,” Lloyd chimed.
The friends cheered on the Reggae Girlz when they faced Italy in Reims, before travelling down to Grenoble for the Australia match.
They intended to follow the national team into the next round if they progressed, but admitted that hopes were slim.
“Unless we beat Australia 8-0, I think it is almost impossible for us to reach the Round of 16,” Lloyd said.
“But that doesn’t matter. Just being here is the true victory.”
The Jamaican duo are queuing up for the telepherique, a cable-car that ferries visitors across the glacial Isere river and up the side of the Chartreuse mountain to the Fort de la Bastille.
The fort offers stunning views of Grenoble and the nearby Alps.
Visitors feel on top of the world. If the Matildas beat Jamaica and progress through to the knock-out rounds of the World Cup, they might, too.
In Grenoble? Don’t miss:
- Grenoble is the “capital of the Alps” for a reason. There’s plenty of hiking, climbing and canyoning within easy reach from the city
- Musee de Grenoble has an expansive collection, from ancient Egyptian antiquities to a notable selection of modern art and everything in between
- Kai-Iwi Cafe feels somewhat out of place – a New Zealand cafe tucked in among the winding French alleyways of Grenoble’s old town. But for great brunch, look no further
- Tower Coffee Grenoble is a strong contender for best brew in town – their mechanical coffee machine is a real work of art
- For those who need a break from rich French cuisine, Le Wey is run by a Mexican and a Venezuelan – so you know the burritos are the real deal
Kieran Pender is covering the 2019 FIFA Women’s World Cup for The World Game. Follow him on Twitter:
