Falling in love in Rome

Francesco Totti – whose statue would not be out of place next to those of Caesar and Augustus in the city centre – breathes out as he prepares to take a penalty. This would also be his first goal for the 2011-2012 season.

It is a special moment for my Australian-Italian Romanista friend, Sam Eastwood. On his previous two visits to the Stadio Olimpico, he hasn’t seen Totti play. Now, he is on the edge of his seat watching alongside the fans as Totti starts his run up.

Rome’s golden boy dispatches the spot kick into the top corner. Mayhem ensues as the fans in the Curva Sud form their very own tifosi mosh pit. Seats become impromptu drum kits and flags wave proudly in unison. Several giallo and rosso flares light up around the stadium. The men, women and children in the adjacent stand are overcome with joy as Totti’s song “C'è solo un capitano” is sung around the Olimpico.

This is football passion in its most pure form.

Some of my earliest football memories are of sitting around the table with my father and brother watching Serie A on a Sunday morning.

Italian football has changed dramatically since those times, and not always for the better. But when Sam asked me to join him at the Olimpico, there was no way I could have said no.

On match day there is no escaping the verve that embraces the city as fans draped in giallorossi stretch from the Colosseum to the Pantheon, crowding onto the buses and trams that will take them across the Tiber.

Italian football’s recent troubles mean that getting into the ground requires a fair bit of patience as security checks are carried out. Fans queue in typically Romanista style, which basically means there is no queue at all.

Sam could barely hide his excitement as he jostled for space closer to the turnstiles. He’d been here before; he knew what was coming once he reached the stadium.

Once the formalities of flashing your passport at various entry points are over, the chanting from the Curva Sud dominates the stadium.

But the most surprising discovery upon reaching the stairs that lead to the stands is the intoxicating smell of freshly brewed coffee that emanates from inside.

Most stadiums in the world have built-in bars flowing with beer, and while the Olimpico is no exception, what sets it apart are its built-in cafés with espresso machines and trained baristas.

I can say that the coffee was of very good quality and if the occasion doesn’t get your pulse racing, the espresso certainly well.

The Olimpico is an old fashioned, grand bowl-like stadium, but unlike some others surrounded by a running track, the view is quite good even from the behind the corner flag.

As we sat down in our seats, a giant bang echoed around the ground. After the initial shock, memories of those Sundays watching Serie A on SBS came flooding back.

While the players warmed up, the Curva Sud put on a show, singing, jumping and waving giallorossi flags whilst letting off the occasional firecracker.

As the players came out for kick-off, everyone lifted their scarves over their heads as half the Olimpico turned red and yellow.

“Roma, Roma, Roma” is belted out by all.

I stand next to Sam, who knows the words by heart and is singing along.

I can honestly say that it is as moving as “You’ll Never Walk Alone” at Anfield.

The Roma fans are as passionate as any I’ve come across and in that wonderfully Italian way.

When a refereeing decision goes against them, they rise as one, waving their arms vigorously at the official. Everyone remonstrates from afar, from grandparents to grandchildren, before sitting back down to tell their neighbours why that decision was wrong.

A goal is met with as much enthusiasm, and when Totti scores his first Serie A goal in over three months, you know it’s going to be a special day in the Italian capital.

I was just as impressed with the spectacle on the pitch as I was off it.

While there is still some way to go for Roma, Luis Enrique’s ‘Barcaroma’ philosophy is starting to take shape as the giallorossi dominated Chievo with some sparkling football.

A second for Totti capped off a wonderful afternoon of football, a day in which I rediscovered my love for Serie A, and reaffirmed Sam’s devotion to it and Roma.

As the players made their way off the pitch, the fans sang “Grazie Roma”, scarves and flags once again aloft in the waning Roman sun.

I couldn’t have said it better myself. Grazie Roma.